CHOK:
DISCONTIUOUS SUPPLEMENTARY WEFT
Continuous supplementary weft is the process of placing a supplementary yarn
into the web of plain weaving in order to created a pattern that floats on the
surface of the weave. When the supplementary yarns need are metallic, such as
gold or silver, the term "brocade" is need. The supplementary yarns are placed
into the weaving by the assistance of special heddles that raise the warp to a
certain pattern allowing the supplementary yarns to be placed alternately to the
plain weave yarns. Prior to the invention of these special heddles, shed sticks
were placed in the warp to indicate the pattern for the supplementary yarns,
thus restricting the repeat of the pattern to one repeat. The use of heddles
allowed for endless production of a design.
Supplementary warp was the predominant decorative form in most areas prior to
the period of Indian influence but there is sufficient evidence to suggest that
supplementary weft existed as an indigenous technique. However, widespread shift
from warp to weft decoration occurred in the early part of the first millennium
AD and coincided with the Indian influence in SE Asia. The later introduction of
silver and gold yarns brought about a significant change in textiles woven for
the aristocracy. In regional areas silk was placed in cotton fabrics as a luxury
supplementary weft decoration, bringing with it the palette of brighter colors
that are associated with silk.
02. December 2004