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Chiang Saen

Before the rise of the Lanna Empire on the bank of the Ping River
in 1700 B.E. (1157 A.D.), Chiang Saen, now a district of Chiang
Rai, served as a settlement of indigenous people who spoke Mon
and Khmer. Prominent among these settlers were the et hnic Lua
people, who coined the phrase "Saang kaw fah, Laa kaw muang" (The
sky the spirit created, the city the Lua made).


According to the legend of Suwanna Komekham (1057 - 1157 A.D.),
before the Khom people expanded their empire to the Mekong Basin
around the ancient city of Bodhisarn Luang, Phraya Bataleebut's
son Kuruwongsa, a hand some prince of awesome physical stre ngth,
ordered his people to build a wall around the city. When the
ruler heard about this, he issued a warrant for Kuruwongsa's
arrest. A battle ensued, from which Price Kuruwongsa emerged the
winner. He then succeeded as the new ruler, and had the name of
the city changed to Kururat and its people known as Klawm or
Khom. Next to the formidable kururat was the state of
Indapathan, which was ruled by a princess served by warriors
known as forest guardians. When Prince Kuruwongsa married the
princess, their two states merged and became known as kururat -
lttapat Mahanakho n.

Phra That Chom Kitti, Chiang Saen Bodhisarn Luang was
subsequently ruled by several other dynasties, one of which was
that of Phraya Sriwongsa who had two sons, Indrawongsa and
Aiyakumarn. Indrawongsa ascended to the throne after Sriwongsa's
death, and made Aiyakumarn his viceroy. Indrawongsa's son
Indrapathom then married his cousin, Viceroy Aiyakumarn's
daughter Urasa, and they had six children, the youngest of whom
was Devindrabovorn. When Indrapathom succeeded his father as
ruler, Aiyakumarn conceded his position and went to set up a new
town on a hilly site the shape of a capsized boat west of Kok
River, on the bank of the Mekong River.

A new town was born but an old town was soon to perish. Two
incidents combined to ensure the end of the prosperous kingdom.
One was the appointment of Bahira - Brahm as King Indrapathom's
counsellor and the other was Queen Urasa's giving birth to her
seventh child. The sky was screaming and the earth shaking when
the child was delivered through the mouth, from where it dropped
onto a golden tray. This was accompanied by miraculous traits:
the new - born child, named Suwannamukha Tawarn, immediately
walked and tal ked, and his supernatural ability became the talk
of the kingdom and beyond. Suwannamukha - Tawarn's miraculous
power accelerated as he was seven months old the Court's
counsellor told the king that the baby was an evil spirit. He
warned that the city would be doomed if the child was allowed to
grow, and suggested that he be ban isted from the Kingdom. The
gullible king followed his counsellor's advice. By sacrificing
his youngest son and wife to an unknown destination on a raft
along the Mekong River, the king believed that he had secured the
safety of his kingdom. Aiyakumarn, who later became known as
Aiya - Upparat, made a trip to visit his daughter and his new -
born grandson, and was devastated when he learned what happened
to his own flesh and blood. He ordered that poles be planted and
golden lanterns hung a t every pier. He also pleaded with the
great Naga, the guardian of water. to protect Queen Urasa and the
little Suwannamukha Tawarn.

Phra That Song Peenong (Wiang Preugsa), Chiang Saen Hearing Aiya
- Upparat's plea, the head of all nagas, Phra Srisattanaga,
drafted his naga soldiers to fill the Mekong River with stones at
a place called Kaengsipee. Three miracles thus happened: golden
lanterns lighting up the night along the riverside, the river
rising to the brim, and the raft floating upstream. Accord ingly,
the next morning, the raft carrying Queen Urasa and her young son
arrived safely at Kome kham Pier in answer to her father's
prayer.

for seven days and seven nights, the city was in a festive mood
as the people expressed their gratitude to the Naga and the
guardian angels and celebrated the safe return of the queen and
the young prince. Suwanna Komekham was adopted as the name of the
new town. Meanwhile, after the banishment of Queen Urasa and
Suwannamukha Tawarn, Bodhisarn Luang underwent a series of
calamities including droughts, famines and the plague. Many
people left the city and moved elsewhere, with some migrating to
Suwanna Komekham. By divine intervention, a horse named Assadorn
arrived at Bodhisarn Luang. King Indrapathom's son Prince
Devindrabovorn was destined to be the only person who could
overcome the horse, and accordingly, Assadorn took the prince to
Suwanna Komekham, where he was reunited with his mother and
younger brother. Upon learning that his wife and youngest son
were safe, King Indrapathom made a journey to plead for his
wife's return. His plea rejected, he returned to Bodhisarn Luang
broken - hearted. Eventually, Prince Suwannamukha Tawarn ruled
Suwanna Komekham while his elder brother ruled Bodhisarn Luang.
The court counsellor, Bahira - Brahm and his family and cronies
were expelled from Bodhisarn Luang and they settled at a place
called "Umongka - Salao - Nakhon". What was lit would be
extinguished, and so was the light of the golden lanterns. This
folk legend thus also gives an account of the end of Suwanna
Komekham. Wat Chedi Luang

The Suwanna Komekham court was succeeded by descendants of the
same royal family until the royal line ran out of its rightful
successor. It was at this time that Bahira - Brahm's descendants
moved in and took over Suwanna Komekham, which ironically me t
its end at the hands of its own rulers. On the bank of the great
Mekong, mid - way between Suwanna Komekham and Bodhisarn Luang
lived a lone lad who toiled the land. One day, the three
daughters of the great Naga sneaked into the farm and stole some
food from the farmer. Their mischief enrag ed their father, who
punished them by sentencing them to spend their lives serving the
young farmer. One day, the three daughters advised the farmer to
sell his produce in Suwanna Komekham. The young farmer followed
the recommendation and traded in Suwanna Komekham on several
occasions, but each time he lost his merchandise because of
tricks by the cro oked ruler of Suwanna Komekham. Finally, the
three girls accompanied him on his trip to Suwanna Komekham. In a
win - all, lose - all gamble, the city was lost to the farmer,
who was aided by the magical support of the Naga's three
daughters. However, the ruler of Suwanna Komekham ref used to
concede his kingdom and forced the farmer leave the city Enraged,
the three daughters reported the incident to their father. In
the dark of the night, the great Naga and his supporters launched
an offensive on Suwanna Komekham, resulting in the city and the
palace being inundated and going under the Mekong River. The
residents of the city fled and settled in different places.
 


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02. December 2004